Back in 2025, we paid a visit to Joo Chiat, where we saw many pastel-coloured Peranakan shophouses with intricate designs and floral motifs. And now, we've travelled to yet another place that is largely similar in terms of the concentration of shophouses but offers a wholly different vibe.
While Joo Chiat is more of a deeply cultural residential and heritage enclave, Tanjong Pagar - courtesy of being located on the fringes of the CBD area - is more of an upscale, lifestyle hub.
Though Singaporeans may associate Tanjong Pagar with the plethora of Korean food options (a "Koreatown" within Chinatown) and bars in and around the area, there's a lot more to it. Did you know that this district was the site of Singapore's first urban restoration project? It is also home to many bookstores, art galleries, and a few antiques stores that are still very much in business.
Mmm, bookstores. That word did the trick for us. And so, we decided to see for ourselves what this once-fishing village has to offer in our chariot of the day: The Toyota Vios Hybrid.
Word of advice: Road conditions to take note of at Tanjong Pagar
Parking by the roadside requires a little bit of luck and timing, so we'd recommend leaving your vehicle at the Carpark at Duxton Hill (089592), which is a public carpark right smack in the middle of the surrounding F&B and retail enterprises.
Although we came during what can be considered as "off-peak" hours, the carpark was still almost full, save for a few spaces. However, we would still consider this your best chance to snag a parking spot, should you choose to visit.
And though the parking spaces can be a little challenging for bigger cars, it was not a problem for our Vios Hybrid sedan.
Where to park: Carpark at Duxton Hill
Ease of parking: 5/5. Bigger vehicles may face slight challenges in parking, although ultimately it should not be that big of an issue.
Parking rates: Mondays to Saturdays, from 07:00am to 05:00pm, $1.20 per 30 minutes. From 05:00pm to 07:00am, $0.60 per 30 minutes. For Sundays and public holidays, $0.60 per 30 minutes from 07:00am to 07:00pm the following day.
1. Myung Ga II at Tanjong Pagar (bring your Hyung to Myung)
This humble eatery can trace its roots to Bukit Timah Plaza, where it started out as Ming Jia Korean Food and served up Korean-style "cai png". Later, the Korean owners took over another unit in the same building and named it "Myung Ga II". Currently, this Tanjong Pagar outlet is their second unit and also their first foray outside of Bukit Timah Plaza.
With seemingly quite a bit to live up to, and not without a dearth of options to try, we decided to give this restaurant a run for its money.
Stepping inside, a poster on the wall caught our eye. It was of local competitive eater Zermatt Neo, who took part in a few food challenges in the store and recommended that patrons try the Soy Garlic fried chicken, which he rated a solid 10/10. Well, with an endorsement of that calibre, how could we not?
And so, with growling stomachs and drooling mouths, we tried out the Kimchi Fried Rice with Spam, Haemul Jjambbong (Korean Spicy Seafood Noodle Soup), Mul-Naengmyeon (Korean cold noodle soup), and eight pieces of Soy Garlic fried chicken.
In a word: Delectable. The Mul-Naengmyeon was just the right balance of spicy and tangy, my colleagues polished off their dishes with ease, and everyone chomped down on the fried chicken, picking the bones clean like ravenous vultures. Our final verdict? We'll definitely be back for more.
2. HULS Gallery - Duxton Hill (a way more "atas" Muji)
Founded in September 2017, HULS Gallery had one mission: To introduce fine, high-quality Japanese crafts (called "Kogei") to the world. And its flagship store sells products - to name a few - ranging from tea wares, sake wares, and art pieces. It also plans and organises various events related to Japanese crafts, with the most recent being an exhibition by ceramic artist Taketoshi Ito.
And while HULS Gallery does have three outlets in Singapore, the one at Tanjong Pagar is its flagship.
Inside, we were treated to a wide array of intricate art pieces, carefully crafted tea wares, and Inokura tea leaves. But what really caught our eye was a cute little set of five mini cat-shaped objects, which the staff patiently explained were actually chopstick holders that were made of tin and very much malleable, although I didn't dare try.
The tags here were very much on the pricey side, although I'm sure it's due to the quality of the products and the time and care it took to craft them. Indeed, these felt like more of display products or maybe even to be used sparingly on special occasions.
3. Book Bar (voracious bibliophiles, rejoice!)
Tanjong Pagar is also home to quite a number of bookstores, and as someone who loves the feel of a paperback on hand, we just had to pay one a visit.
And while there's one (Littered by Books, which we still did stop by for a quick peruse) located rather near the Duxton Hill carpark, we decided to check out one a little further down the road.
Book Bar is a place that serves up what its name suggests: Novels and nibbles. It is both a bookstore and a cafe, offering patrons a place and refreshments to enjoy their latest purchase. And arguably its biggest draw is that it carries a wide range of books by local authors.
In all honesty, we were not aware of the sheer number of local writers that our city-state actually has. And the best part? Book Bar allows customers to pay for their purchases with their SG Culture Pass credits, which provides Singaporeans with $100 to offset tickets for local arts and heritage events, exhibitions, workshops, and in this case, books (by local authors only).
There will never be a situation where I'd turn what is essentially a free read down. And so, I purchased a couple of books and joined my colleagues for a much-needed tea break. When we visited Book Bar on a weekday afternoon, its clientele was mostly made up of lone individuals either quietly reading and sipping on their drinks or remotely working on their laptops.
Book Bar also hosts events at its storefront, ranging from community gatherings to book launches. More details can be found on its socials (Facebook and Instagram links here). All in all, this really feels like a space for bookworms, by bookworms.
4. Tong Mern Sern Antiques Arts & Crafts (one man's trash is another man's treasure)
In a rapidly evolving Singapore, finding old-school stores that have withstood the test of time feels like a victory in itself. None more so than this quaint antique shop at 51 Craig Road.
Tong Mern Sern Antiques Arts & Crafts was established in 1972 by proprietor Keng Ah Wong and sells a variety of wares. From wooden ship wheels, porcelain figures, antique furniture, old jewellery, and even decades-old pins with Cyrillic wording, it feels like one can find almost anything from a long-forgotten era in this humble shophouse.
Venturing deeper into the store, we unearthed even more hidden gems. There was a book cabinet with hard cover National Geographic magazines - we're talking spine and all - dating back to the 1970s. There was an assortment of old teapots and plates that would not seem out of place in your grandmother's kitchen. And my colleague even found old vinyl records at the very back of the store.
Seeing these artefacts from a bygone era really drives home how much life has evolved since our parents and grandparents' era. And in an everchanging world, shops like Tong Mern Sern Antiques Arts & Crafts do serve as a reminder of the past we look back upon with fondness and nostalgia.
On my last visit prior to this, the second floor was still open to customers and housed many other antiques. Sadly, I was informed by the woman in charge - whom I believe is the owner's daughter - that it is now closed off to the public.
Fret not though, for the first floor is still home to many carefully restored antiques for visitors to enjoy. And for those seeking a blast from the past, or are simply interested in history, this store is one you wouldn't want to pass over.
5. Ji Xiang Confectionery @ Everton Park (stuffed snacks make for stuffed bellies)
Everybody loves a feel-good story, and this family run business definitely fits that category, having started from humble beginnings - more specifically, a kitchen in a HDB flat. Ji Xiang Confectionery opened its first space at Everton Park in 1988 and has been here ever since.
And while there are other similarly named stores in and around Singapore, Ji Xiang Confectionery did put up an advertisement in a Chinese newspaper a few years back stating that it does not have any other stores except the current one at Everton Park.
From what we can gather, it seems to be some sort of dispute between the sons of the original owners. But we're not here to dabble into other families' affairs, we're here to try out Ji Xiang Confectionery's famous ang ku kueh, which is a small Chinese dumpling with glutinous rice flour skin wrapped around a sweet, central filling.
For those that are unaware, ang ku kueh is usually red in colour and moulded to resemble a "tortoise cake", as the Chinese traditionally believe that eating tortoises would bring about longevity, good fortune, and prosperity. These are also usually prepared as offerings to Chinese deities during culturally important festivals such as Chinese New Year.
And while it has its roots in China, most Singaporean stalls (including Ji Xiang Confectionery) have adopted the "Nyonya style" of making this snack. But enough of that history lesson. We came here to try its ang ku kueh and decide for ourselves if it is really as good as people make it out to be.
We decided to get two ang ku kuehs stuffed with peanut filling and promptly sank our molars into them both. First impressions? Like "muah chee", albeit less messy. The sweetness of the peanut filling balanced well with the chewy glutinous rice skin. And given that this was our last stop of the day, nothing beats ending off with a sweet treat.
Where to park: Block 6A (multi-storey carpark). You can probably stop or park nearer to the store if you’re making a quick purchase, as this carpark is a little further away. But since it was raining rather heavily on the day we dropped by, we chose the drier option.
Ease of parking: 4/5. As with older carparks, bigger cars may face challenges with ride height and size. But for a car like the Vios Hybrid, it was not an issue.
Parking rates: Normal HDB rates, $0.60 per half-hour charged by the minute, capped at $12 (whole day parking), $5 per night (from 10:30pm to 07:00am the following day). Free parking on Sundays and public holidays from 07:00am to 10:30pm.
Epilogue
And that concludes our trip to one of Singapore's most historic districts. While many youngsters may flock to Tanjong Pagar for the many Korean food options and trendy bars in and around the area, there's a lot more this place has to offer.
From shops peddling antique wares, to bookstores with a plethora of reading options that'll blow a bibliophile's monthly budget out of the water, and arts and crafts galleries for those with cash and class to spare, we'd wager this place has something for everyone.
Don't forget to check out our previous road trips around the island here:
Sgcarmart Explores: Bras Basah!
