Look up HDB's rundown of townships in Singapore, and you'll find that Kovan actually isn't given 'full-fledged town' status; it's listed instead as a sub-area of Hougang, and by its official name too: Kovan City.
Nonetheless, we'd argue that Kovan has long had a specific, distinct charm of its own. The area has historical significance to the Teochew community, and was actually the site of Hougang's original town centre. Its 'independence' has only been solidified in recent times - first by a dedicated MRT station in 2003, then bolstered even more over the last decade-and-a-half in particular by the sprouting up of condominiums and cafes.
Explore the area, and one will be struck immediately - as we were (again) - by the sheer breadth and diversity of good food to feast upon here; the likes of Ponggol Nasi Lemak, Yong's Teochew Kueh and Heng Long Teochew Porridge have long been staples along Upper Serangoon Road, while Kovan 209 Market and Food Centre has spawned many a food-guide listicle itself.
As such, we've tried to branch out of these better-known areas to cover (the tip of the iceberg of) what perhaps comes to mind less immediately when we think of the area. Ready? Here we go.
Word of advice: Road conditions to take note of in Kovan
Given that it's officially listed as a sub-area of Hougang, it's really quite hard to tell where the small area covered by Kovan ends (where exactly are you pushing into Serangoon, Hougang Ubi, Paya Lebar, and Bartley?).
With that qualification in mind, we'd say it's mostly smaller roads that run around the area - through Hougang Street 21, Lorong Ah Soo, and Hougang Avenue 1. While traffic can get heavy on these roads, it's rarely to the point where you're stuck idling. This arguably applies to a degree even to Upper Serangoon Road, which is busy throughout the day.
What you should take note of, however, is the presence of learner drivers since Kovan is one of the pickup points for those enrolled in ComfortDelgro Driving Centre. Friendly reminder: We were once in their shoes (or shall we say, in their Vioses), so exercise patience if you come across L-plated cars.
*Extra tip: (Relatively) new parking space!
This isn't related to any particular culinary destination per se, but drivers might want to know that a new multi-storey carpark along Hougang Street 21 was just completed within the past year.
BLK 229 should scratch the itch of those who've always sought sheltered parking in the area, but there's another perk - free parking on Sundays and Public Holidays! We're quite certain that this is the closest 'orange-plated' carpark you'll find to the heart of Kovan.
1) The Humble Scoop (Stars of Kovan)
A road trip wouldn't be complete without some ice cream, and to explain why we're starting off with dessert (instead of ending off with it as we previously did), it's because we want to highlight this specific development.
Despite its prominent location, Stars of Kovan was only completed in 2020, and stands out from the multitude of other condominium projects here in that its ground floor (facing out onto Upper Serangoon Road) doesn't house residents, but shops. Tenants here include Singapore's favourite moneymakers (read: enrichment centres), artisanal bakeries, and even a spin-class studio.
Naturally, nestled among them is an ice-cream joint - and one that's delightfully Singaporean too. Priding itself on serving locally-inspired flavours, you'll be able to get typical favourites such as Cookies and Cream (here, Kookies and Kream), and Strawberry… but why would you, when there are rarer alternatives such as Muah Chee and Kopi C Siew Dai here?
Apart from the cutesy feline imagery used, another charming aspect of The Humble Scoop is the humour injected into its flavour names: We have 'Gam Xia Sorbet' for mandarin orange, and 'Orh Be Good' for pulut hitam, while Pistachio is followed up in parentheses with 'but you also chio'. Never say never to a compliment.
Where to park: Stars of Kovan, B2 Public Carpark
Ease of parking: 3.5/5. It's not a narrow carpark per se, but do take note not to enter the residential carparks at Level 1 (this is technically already one floor down from the Upper Serangoon Road entrance) and Basement 1; we've seen drivers getting confused before!
Parking rates: $1.00 per hour from 7:00am to 10:30pm, $2.00 per hour from 10:30pm to 7:00am the following day (same rates on weekdays and weekends)
2) Mutts and Mittens Active
Yes, that is a swimming pool that you see suddenly lodged in the middle of Upper Serangoon Road. But it's not one that we're (humans) not allowed to swim in - at least not in the conventional sense.
An offshoot of pet-boarding service provider, Mutts & Mittens, Mutts & Mittens Active puts a slightly different spin on pet-care with its watery facility, sandwiched between the main road and the residential open-air carpark right beside it.
The company says that its U-shaped 'Blue Lagoon' pool is long enough to swim Olympic laps - perfect for dog-owners who want their precious best friends to get a good workout in, while also cooling off on a warm day.
Beside the pool, Mutts and Mittens also has a conventional pet boarding facility at which you can leave your furry friends for the day if you're busy, or even overnight if you happen to be going abroad for a day or two. We found this link online for boarding rates here!
Where to park: Among the multitude of parking areas spread across Kovan centre, the one you'll want to be in is the one closest to the intersection of Upper Serangoon Road and Hougang Street 21.
Ease of parking: 4.5/5. This area of the carpark is also the furthest from Heartland Mall, meaning that you're unlikely to be fighting with shoppers and eaters around the area.
Parking rates: $0.60 per half hour, charged by the minute (HDB rate)
3) Ba Du Kong Jian (Lowland Road)
This one's also a relative newcomer to those who haven't been around Kovan for a couple of years.
Ba Du Kong Jian used to be one of the mainstays of Teck Chye Terrace - a rather iconic row of shophouses located just further down along Upper Serangoon Road - but if you've driven past the area, you'll note that the entire development is (sadly) being rebuilt from the ground up.
Instead, it's now taken up residence amidst the landed properties behind Kovan MRT station. As the casual Taiwanese dining joint we've grown to love over the years, Ba Du Kong Jian hasn't changed its menu for a while now - meaning whether you're in the mood for a proper meal, or just want to get some dessert, you'll still be satisfied here.
Either way, don't forget to get your serving of milk tea with pearls here!
Where to park: Parallel lots along Kovan Road.
Ease of parking: 2.5/5. This being a private estate, the only lots you'll find are tucked to the side along Kovan Road. They fill up especially quickly on weekend evenings.
Parking rates: $0.60 per half hour, charged by the minute (HDB rate)
4) Hainanese Village Centre
We may all know Kovan 209 Market and Food Centre (basically the one right outside the MRT station) as the star of the estate, but venture just a bit further out, and even more good food awaits at its often-forgotten sibling.
Located just five minutes away by car, Hainanese Village Centre is lodged right in the middle of the residential area known as Lorong Ah Soo. It's host to a wet market on the ground floor, and a well-sized hawker centre on Level 2 too.
Hainanese Village Centre as we know it today was refurbished and officially opened in 2005, but like those in Kovan 209, quite a number of the hawker stalls that it houses today have been around for decades. Whether it's the best lor mee, traditional finger food, or even a solid brew of kopitiam coffee, the food you can find here
Some of our personal highlights include Lorong Ah Soo Lor Mee, Blue Star Fried Hokkien Mee, Apollo Western Food, and Da Zhong Cafe - which serves up some of the best iced lemon tea (siew dai) you can find at a hawker centre. Another highlight here is Dong Jin Yuan Dian Xin; don't be surprised to find that its 'carrot stick fingers' have already been sold out if you only arrive past noon.
Where to park: Whether it's ground-level surface parking or sheltered multi-storey parking you prefer, you get both options here; both entrances are located along Hougang Avenue 1, although the former comes first.
Ease of parking: 3.5/5. Parking isn't difficult per se, but due to the hawker centre's popularity, surface parking lots can be snapped up quite quickly during peak hours (in the morning).
Parking rates: $0.60 per half hour, charged by the minute (HDB rates)
5) Molly's
Once you're done with filling your stomach at Hainanese Village Centre and want to dabao some snacks home, it might interest you to just swing round the corner to the voiddeck of Block 104. Behind bright pink awnings you cannot miss resides Molly's - a bakery selling exactly what its name suggests.
The shop has been here longer than some of us on the team have actually been alive - since 1993! - but its history apparently stretches even further back into 1971, when it was a roadside stall along Sin Ming Road. While members of the Sgcarmart team are unfortunately no experts on the varieties of nyonya kueh, it's quite likely the millennials - and older - amongst us will find bits and pieces familiar from their childhood. (There were exclamations in the vein of "Ooh I remember this!"s and "Oh wow" as we entered.)
Traditional nyonya kueh aside, you'll also find very old school snacks here, including kuih piring (those colourful, circular wafers), iced gem biscuits, and savoury snacks such as potato wheel crackers. You can most certainly settle a full meal here too if you want, since there's nasi lemak packed in the corner.
Shops like Molly's - that ostensibly cater to a local crowd rather than tourists - are increasingly rare to come by in modern Singapore day. That makes this all the more a must-visit if your road trips ever bring you into the area.
Where to park: (Same as above)
Ease of parking: (Same as above)
Parking rates: (Same as above)
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